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CartHere’s How to Build a Pergola
Here’s What You’ll Need*:
Supplies
All Pressure-Treated Lumber
(4) 6" x 6" Posts (12-foot lengths)
(4) 6" x 6" Posts (10-foot lengths)
(8) 2" x 10" (8-foot lengths)
(12) 2" x 8" (16-foot lengths)
(54) 2" x 2" (8-foot lengths)
(17) 2" x 2" (10-foot lengths)
(17) 2" x 2" (12-foot lengths)
(17) Fence boards
(8) Saddle bracket (if attaching to existing pad)
3" Deck Screws
Carriage Bolts
Tools
Screw Gun
Electric Drill
Pencil
Level
Speed Square
*Lumber may vary depending on your location. To see all your options, use our Store Locator to find the Home Hardware Building Centre or Home Building Centre closest to you.
Steps:
Before you begin, consult with your local building authority regarding community and neighbouring building codes to determine if a permit is required, or if other restrictions apply.
Assemble all the materials and tools for your project.
3. Install your 3 (6" x 6" – 10-foot length) posts by using your existing concrete patio or slabs as the base; attach the posts with saddle brackets (this will be the low side of the pergola).
NOTE: If you intend to secure your poles in the ground (rather than attach to concrete), contact local utility companies to determine where utility lines are located to prevent any damage to underground pipes or utilities.
4. Since most backyards are not level, you will need to create a level mark before cutting the tops. You can ensure your posts are level by measuring from the mark to 8' and 11" up (or desired height; this creates a level line across all posts). Cut off any excess. On one side we did 8' and the other side (including the end) we did 11'. Now you have 8 posts level and standing.
NOTE: Don’t cut the 2 inside posts on the side with the verticals, as you will need different heights once the roof pitch is determined.
5. On the side posts, measure the height and the thickness of a 2" x 10" (this is equal to the amount of material you will remove from either side of the top of the post). Score lines with a circular saw and notch out the wood on either side with a reciprocating saw. Place the 2" x 10" piece and screw into each side of the post, securing it with carriage bolts. Repeat this process on the higher 11' side of the pergola.
6. For the rafters, position the 2" x 8" (16-foot length) perpendicular to the side pieces on both the short and tall side of the pergola. Determine how much overhang you want (minimum of 12" on either side). Slide your first piece up against the end posts (this will be your template rafter piece). Position your speed square up against the beam and the rafter and mark straight up with a pencil (if you continued, your line would be flush with the face of the beam).
7. Square up from the 2 outside posts and mark across 5 1/2" (the width of the post) a “bird’s mouth” cut, so that the board sits flat at the desired pitch on each end.
8. Once all of this is drawn and cut out, you will use this as a rafter template.
9. Also use this to mark the height of the 2 inside posts (under the rafters). Ensure the posts on the end are level. Temporarily secure the rafter to the posts to hold. Mark the top and bottom of the rafter on the post. Remove the rafter from its temporary position. Cut off the posts on the top line.
10. Notch out the sides of the end posts (like you did with the side posts) to accommodate the end rafters. Then, attach a rafter on the inside and outside of the post and secure into place.
11. Cut out your remaining rafters and assemble as pairs with 3" gap. Space out the pairs of rafters evenly across the top (ensure one pair hits the posts on the other end).
Build the Roof
12. Starting at the 8’ end, attach the 2" x 2" (8-foot length) on top of the rafters – alternating the joints. Space about 6" apart (you can place them as close together or as far apart as you desire). Attach with 3" deck screws. Cut flush on the ends.
Create the Decorative End Wall
13. Mark 4" to 5" off the ground (making sure it’s level across all sides and all posts). Measure the low side to the top of the rafter (minus 1/2") from the mark. Measure the other side to the top of the rafter (minus 1/2") from the bottom mark. Create a 3-sided frame with 2" x 2" pieces (the width and height of 1 section between posts). Lay all the 2" x 2" pieces on the ground and screw each into place from the bottom with equal spacing. Transfer those measurements to your frame and connect the 2 marks with a line, cutting across that line through all pieces with a circular saw.
14. Temporarily secure all 2" x 2" pieces with a cross-piece on the back. Screw in a temporary block at the bottom of the posts (at your level mark) to support the frame. Now you can lift your frame into place. Secure the tops into the spaces between the rafters (secure to the inside rafter from the back and screw into the front rafter). Screw the side frames 1/2" from the face of the 6" x 6" (repeat on the other side). Counter sink and secure the bottom-frame piece into the posts and remove the temporary blocks. Secure a permanent 2" x 2" cross-piece, 4' up from the bottom, across the back of all 2" x 2" pieces. Now you can remove the temporary block. Repeat the process for the tall side.
15. Build the fence board section by securing a 2" x 2" (1 1/2" from the face) at the bottom-level mark. Then, secure a 2" x 2" on either side (up into the top rafter) – creating a 2" x 2" frame for the fence boards. Measure the distance between the two 6" x 6" posts and cut all fence boards to size (measure each board as you position them 1 1/2" apart – use a piece of 2" x 2" as a spacer) and cut as you go, from bottom up.
NOTE: The top 2 fence boards will be cut at the same pitch as the rafters. These fence boards can be secured to the rafters from behind.
Your outdoor pergola is now complete! Create a cool and relaxing environment with this stylish retreat.
