Here’s How to Finish Your Basement from Bare Walls to Drywall

Whether you’re beginning with a new home or renovating a house you’ve been living in for years, finishing the basement will provide additional living space for everyone in the family. It’s also a great idea if you’re simply looking to polish up the lower-level before selling. Before you press “go”, consult your local government to determine what building permits are required. Line up professional electricians and plumbers to help get the job done safely and correctly.

Supplies:

• insulation foam board 

• foam adhesive 

• sheathing tape 

• subfloor panels 

• levelling kit 

• wood studs 

• nails 

• electrical wire 

• cable staples 

• electrical boxes 

• plumbing 

• Fiberglass insulation 

• vapour barrier 

• sealing tape 

• staples 

• drywall 

• drywall screws 

• drywall mesh tape 

• drywall compound

Tools:

• caulking gun 

• rubber mallet 

• framing hammer 

• Ramset Actuated Fastening Trigger Tool 

• drill 

• dimple drill bit (drywall) 

• tool belt 

• gloves 

• staple hammer 

• razor knife 

• bread knife (for insulation) 

• Home Handyman 6 Piece Drywall Tool Kit 

• pencil 

• measuring tape 

• circular saw 

• jigsaw 

• carpenter’s square 

• 6-foot level

Steps

Your lower-level reno will require these key steps: 

1. Create a moisture barrier

This can be done in several different ways. If using sheets of rigid foam, apply to concrete walls using adhesive. Seal the joints of the foam panels with sheathing tape. These airtight walls will keep moisture out. (Follow local building code requirements for specific product and installation requirements.) 

2. Build a subfloor

There are also options for subflooring; all provide warmth and comfort to your finished basement and serve to guard against moisture. Start with a clean surface. Place ¼-inch spacers against the walls and start laying your tongue-and-groove subfloor panels – the first panels should be tongue against the walls. Continue by sliding adjacent panels in place, securing with tapping block and hammer. Stagger your seams for the next panel rows for increased stability – a brick pattern works well. Check each completed row for level, and use levelling shims as required. 

3. Construct stud walls

Stud walls can be constructed in either wood or metal. For ease of installation, build them in sections with a stud placed every 16 inches on centre with screws. You will have a top and a bottom horizontal plate with vertical studs within. Measure and mark for placement of each vertical stud on both top and bottom plate. Ensure each stud is level and plumb. Nail studs in place. Secure your completed stud wall to the rigid foam wall, screwing into ceiling joist at top and screwing in the subfloor at the bottom. 

4. Plan and mark placement for electrical and plumbing

Electrical and plumbing can now be installed into your basement’s framing. Line up professional service experts to ensure your installs are to code. 

5. Install insulation

Once electrical and plumbing are complete, insulation should be installed. Again, there are options such as foam and batting insulation. Standard foam batting is sized to fit between 16-inch studs. Stuff into place, floor to ceiling. (Note: Check local R Value Code requirements when selecting insulation, and make sure to wear protective goggles, mask and clothing when handling insulation.) 

6. Apply vapour barrier

Vapour barrier is thick plastic used for damp proofing. To apply, you first run a bead of sealant along the top plate of framing. Unroll plastic to wall height lengths and press in place. Run another bead of sealant along the bottom stud plate, and adhere vapour barrier plastic at this end. Now, use a hammer stapler to secure the vapour barrier to all studs. 

7. Seal draft gaps

Use sheathing tape to cover and seal any draft gaps in the installed vapour barrier. This is a crucial step in improving your home’s energy efficiency. 

8. Begin drywall

Measure and map out your walls and ceiling surfaces on paper before you begin. Drywall the ceiling first. For the walls, place drywall horizontally in a brick pattern, working from the bottom up. Secure drywall to studs with drywall screws, spacing screws every 12 inches, and sinking screw heads slightly below the drywall face without breaking the paper. Remember to mark the position of electric outlets on drywall panels as you go, and carefully cut out areas to accommodate outlet boxes. 

9. Tape and mud

Taping the seams and mudding of drywall can now begin. First, make sure to protect your floor, and then mix your powdered mud if you’re not using premixed drywall compound. Apply the first coat of mud to smooth out and level beveled joints (of panels) and screw indents. Next, cover mudded joints with a length of tape while mud is still wet, and smooth out bubbles with drywall knife. Tape inside corners next, then outside corners, and lastly any butt joints (where two untampered panels meet). 

10. Sand drywall

Ensure mud is completely dry, and cover doorways to the rest of the house before sanding. (Trust us, drywall dust gets everywhere!) Next, put on goggles and a respirator mask. Sand all joints and nail indentations to create a smooth surface. Apply the next coat of mud, sand, and repeat until your walls and ceiling are completely smooth. You’re now ready for priming and painting. 

11. Add the finishing touches

Lastly, details like flooring, doors and moulding can be added. These elements will both finish your completed basement and bring style and personality, too!