Here's How to Build an Outdoor Theatre and Planter Boxes

Want to up your backyard fun factor? Build your very own DIY Outdoor Theatre and start hosting movie night under the stars - in the comfort of your own yard. Our project has the added design advantage of planters at the base of your screen, so you can make the outdoors beautiful. Once you’re finished building, you’ll need a projector and a simple sound system (a portable Bluetooth audio speaker will do the trick). Then gather the comfy lounge furniture, turn on the garden lights and bring on the popcorn!

Supplies for Outdoor Theatre

(2) 2" x 6" Pressure Treated Lumber (10-foot lengths)
(1) 2" x 8" Pressure Treated Lumber (10-foot lengths)
(2) 2" x 4" Pressure Treated Lumber (10-foot lengths)
(3) 2" x 4" Pressure Treated Lumber (8-foot lengths)
(2) 4" x 4" Pressure Treated Lumber (8-foot lengths)
(1) 5/8" x 6" Pressure Treated Fence Board (8-foot length)
3" Deck Screws
(1) 9' x 12' Durable Indoor/Outdoor Canvas Drop Cloth
3.64 L BeautiTone Exterior Acrylic Latex Flat Paint – Medium Base (White)
(2) 1 1/4" x 3" Black Top Fence Rail (10-foot lengths)
1 Pair 1 5/16" Chrome Heavy-Duty Pole Sockets
River Trail 19 mm x 18" Flat Bungee Cords – 2 Pack

Tools

Drill
Impact Drill
Table Saw
Mitre Saw
Jigsaw
Tape Measure
Pencil
Staple Gun
Staples
Carpenter Saw
Paint Brush
Scissors
Sawhorses or equivalent

*Our full assortment of building supplies is available at Home Building Centre and Home Hardware Building Centre locations. To unlock our catalogue of building supplies online, please select your local Building Centre.

Here’s How to Make It

We’re using an indoor-outdoor canvas drop cloth and pressure-treated wood to make an outdoor theatre and planter boxes. Simple and streamlined, it will suit any backyard design, expand your exterior living space, and will provide yet another way to extend the number of hours you can enjoy outside.

The overall dimensions of the movie theatre are 120" wide x 87" high x 48" deep, including the overhang.

The overall dimensions of each planter box is 25 5/8" wide x 19 1/2" high x 50 7/8" deep.

Build the Movie Screen

Steps:

1. Gather all the materials and tools for your project.

2. Paint your canvas with two coats of BeautiTone Exterior Acrylic Latex Flat Paint – Medium Base (White). Let dry completely between coats (approx. 3 hours). Set aside to dry overnight.

NOTE: Canvas must be painted before cutting as it will shrink considerably as it dries.

3. Create the bottom frame of your movie screen. Take the two 2" x 4" (10-foot lengths) and cut them to 104". Using 3" deck screws, attach the two pieces lengthwise. The 2" side of one board gets screwed into the 4" side of the other board. Which will create a 104" long L shape. This L shape will strengthen the frame and cover the front-facing cross braces (to be completed later). Set aside.

TIP: To avoid wood splitting, countersink your holes before screwing.

4. Create the side frames of your movie screen; T-Braces will allow the structure to stand.

You will need:

(2) 2" x 4" (8-foot lengths) cut at 48" (these two pieces will be your base for the two T-Braces)
(2) 4" x 4" (8-foot lengths) cut at 84" (these two pieces will be your vertical posts of the T and will form the side frames of your structure)
(4) 2" x 4" (8-foot lengths) cut at 26" (these four pieces will be the cross supports of your T-Braces); cut the ends of the 26" pieces at 45 degrees

OPTIONAL: Cut the ends of the 48" pieces at 45 degrees for a decorative finish. We left 1" straight.

Take your two 48" pieces and find their centres. Connect one of the 84" posts to one of the 48" base pieces at the centre point (24"). Repeat with the other 84" and 48" pieces.

Add cross braces to these Ts by screwing two 26" pieces to either side of the 84" posts connecting to the 48" pieces. These complete your supporting T-Braces.

5. Attach the bottom frame (the L shape) with the side frames (the T-Braces). Measure and line up at the height of the cross braces (19 ½" height) and screw together.

6. To support the bottom frame (the L shape) create front-facing braces. Cut one 2" x 4" (8-foot length) into two 24" pieces. Take these two 24" pieces and mitre cut both ends at 45 degrees. On both sides of the frame, screw these behind the L frame and at the base of the T-brace.

7. Create the sides (front and back) of the top frame. Take the two 2" x 6" (10-foot lengths) and create decorative ends by cutting the ends of both pieces at 45 degrees – we left 1" straight. Take one 2" x 6" (10-foot length) and position it on the back face of the vertical side posts flush with the top of them. There will be an overhang on both sides. Measure so the overhang is equal distance on both sides and screw into place.

The frame can now stand upright. This is a two-person job as the frame will be heavy and awkward.

8. Finish your top frame. Position the front-facing 2" x 6" at the top of the frame, aligned with the matching 2" x 6" at the back, and screw into place. Due to the size and shape, do not attempt this step on your own. Cap the top of the frame with one 2" x 8" (10-foot length) and position with equal overhang on both sides. Screw into place.

The frame is now complete.

9. Mount the pole sockets that will hang the canvas screen. Take the pair of 1 5/16" Chrome Heavy-Duty Pole Sockets and mount them on the vertical side posts, in-between the front and back-facing boards at the top of your frame with 3" screws.

NOTE: Mount the sockets towards the back so there is enough clearance to insert the rail.

10. Cut the two rails (10-foot lengths) that will hang the canvas screen. Measure, mark and cut both pieces to 99 3/4" using a jigsaw.

11. Create the canvas screen. You will need to:

Cut and fold the canvas screen; measure, mark and cut the painted canvas to 8' x 9 1/2'

(you must paint the canvas before cutting as the fabric will shrink once painted)
Fold the canvas in half so the ends are overlapping
Take one 5/8" x 6"

(8-foot length)

fence board and cut lengthwise into three equal pieces – you will only need two
Holding the two fence board pieces together lengthwise, countersink and pre-drill holes along the length of both pieces
Position one piece under one edge of the canvas and staple the canvas to the entire length of the wood, avoid pre-existing drill holes
Fold the other end of the canvas over that row of staples
Place the second strip of wood on top, aligning with the first canvas-wrapped piece of wood and the pre-drilled holes; make sure there’s overlap so the canvas edge doesn’t fray
Screw the two pieces of wood together sandwiching the canvas between

12. Install the canvas screen. Slide the two rails into the canvas tube you’ve created, one at the top and one at the bottom. Insert the top rail into the pole sockets. The second rail acts as a weight at the bottom of the canvas. Wrap a bungee cord around each end of the bottom rail and around the bottom of your theatre frame to secure it in place. These cords keep the screen taut.

Your canvas is now in place and ready for movie watching!

Or, take your project to the next level by creating outdoor planter boxes.

Here’s How…

Supplies for 1 Planter Box

(3) 2" x 2" Pressure Treated Lumber (8-foot lengths) or use (2) 2" x 4" Pressure Treated Lumber (8-foot lengths) cut lengthwise
(6) 2" x 4" Pressure Treated Lumber (8-foot lengths)
(6) 5/8" x 6" Pressure Treated Fence Board (8-foot length)
3" Deck Screws
1 1/2" Deck Screws
Weed Barrier Landscape Fabric
Soil and Plants

Build the Planter Boxes

1. Assemble all the materials and tools for your project. The final dimensions of each planter box is 25 5/8" wide x 19 1/2" high x 50 7/8" deep.

2. Create the interior frame for the planter box. This will consist of four frames (two sides, one front and one back). These will be joined to create a box frame, which will be clad with fence boards in a later step. Measure, mark and cut 2" x 4"s and 2" x 2"s. You will need:

(10) 2" x 4" cut at 13 1/4"
(4) 2" x 2" cut at 48"
(4) 2" x 2" cut at 20"
(1) 2" x 4" cut at 20"

Create the side frames: Take three 13 1/4" boards and two 48" boards to create a rectangle with centre brace. Screw together. Repeat this process for the other side frame.

TIP: To avoid wood splitting, countersink your holes before screwing.

3. Create the front and back frames: Take two 2" x 4" boards (13 1/4" lengths) and two 2" x 2" boards (20" lengths) to create a rectangle. Screw together. Repeat this process for the other front/back frame.

Attach the four frames together to create a box. Screw together. Add a cross brace on the bottom for extra support. Find the centre and screw one 2" x 4" (20" length).

4. Clad all sides of the box. Measure, mark and cut 5/8" x 6" fence board into six pieces at 24" and 6 pieces at 48".

Screw three pieces horizontally onto each side.

5. Create top and bottom frames. Measure, mark and cut 2" x 4" (8-foot lengths) into four pieces at 24" and four pieces at 51". On all pieces, cut both ends at 45 degrees. Screw together all four pieces to create a rectangular frame. Build the second frame. Take your open box and position with the bottom up.

Screw one of the frames on top to form the base of your planter box, making sure you have equal overhang on all sides. Flip your box.

6. Create finished, decorative corners. Measure, mark and cut 5/8" x 6" fence board lengthwise in two. One length needs to be trimmed 5/8" narrower than the other. You will need four 16" pieces of the wider width and four of the narrower width.

Screw one 16" piece and one 16" trimmed piece together to create an L shape. Screw onto the corner of the planter box. Repeat for the other corners.

TIP: For a cleaner finish, place the wider pieces on the front of the planter box.

7. Line the planter box with weed barrier landscape fabric. Staple in place. Place the second frame on the top of your box and screw in place.