Exterior Staining
Before you stain there are two simple secrets to a long-lasting finish – QUALITY STAIN and PREP WORK. Together they create a beautiful long lasting finish, without prep the odds are high you will be redoing your project again next year.
Prep Work - It’s Important
90% of all stain failure is due to lack of prep work!
Here’s How.
- New wood could have a sheen on it called mill glaze. This will prevent the stain from penetrating. Simply sand area with 80 grit sandpaper or use Wood-Shield Wood Restorer 1874-208
- Check moisture content in the wood. Moisture should be < 15% - 25 % (depending on product used). Use a moisture meter to check, most Home Hardware stores will loan them out. 1010-586
- Peeling Stain, if your existing stain has more than 25% peeling it is recommended to remove the coating and start fresh. Wood-Shield Safe Strip 1874-403
- Mildew may not be visible, therefore it’s best to always clean. Mildew will cause your stain to peel. Wood-Shield Mildew Off 1874-405 (it removes algae, mold and dirt). Activox also restores weathered greyed wood back to its original appearance.
- You need to remove all greyed wood (deadwood fibres). This is the most common error when staining. The grey fibres sit on the top of the wood and are not adhered to the substrate. Staining overtop of the grey changes the colour, however moisture lifts the fi bres off with your new stain attached. Remove deadwood fi bres with Wood-Shield Wood Prep 1874-406, Wood-Shield Wood Restorer 1874-208 or ACTIVOX 1874-410
Sand
Don't skip this step. 80 grit sandpaper is recommended to open up fresh wood fibre. Thoroughly sweep or vacuum up dust.